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Ingredient spotlight: gotu kola — the Ayurvedic herb with stronger collagen evidence than hair evidence, and why that distinction actually matters for your follicles.
Gotu kola (Centella asiatica) has among the strongest collagen synthesis and microcirculation evidence of any botanical in dermatology. Its triterpenoids stimulate fibroblasts and collagen production at the scalp level — the same dermal layer where hair follicles live. A 2017 study found TECA increased dermal papilla cell hair-inductive activity. An April 2026 clinical report found Centella asiatica extracellular vesicles produced ~25% improvement in hair growth parameters. The honest picture: the mechanism is sound, the direct hair evidence is promising but limited. Here is the full story.
Gotu kola's strongest evidence is for collagen synthesis and wound healing — not directly for hair growth. But collagen is the structural matrix that surrounds every hair follicle. The extracellular matrix that dermal papilla cells live in is predominantly collagen. When that matrix degrades — as it does with age and chronic inflammation — follicle cycling is impaired. Gotu kola's collagen evidence is hair-relevant through the connective tissue that holds the follicle together.
In brief: Gotu kola (Centella asiatica) has some of the strongest botanical evidence in dermatology — particularly for collagen synthesis, wound healing, and microcirculation — but the direct hair-specific clinical evidence is less developed than its skin evidence. A 2017 study found that TECA (titrated extract of Centella asiatica) increased hair-inductive activity of dermal papilla cells by inhibiting the STAT signalling pathway. An April 2026 clinical report found a formula containing Centella asiatica extracellular vesicles produced approximately 25% improvement in hair growth parameters. The collagen mechanism makes gotu kola hair-relevant through a route most ingredient discussions miss.
Gotu kola is one of those ingredients where the skin evidence is considerably stronger than the hair evidence — but the gap between them is smaller than it first appears, because skin and hair follicle biology share the same connective tissue substrate.
The dermal extracellular matrix — predominantly collagen — is the structural environment in which hair follicles develop, cycle, and function. The dermal papilla is a pivotal part of the hair follicle, and the smaller size of the DP is related to hair loss. As collagen in the dermis declines with age, chronic inflammation, and oxidative stress, the structural support for follicle cycling degrades. Gotu kola's well-documented collagen synthesis stimulation is therefore not merely a skin benefit — it is relevant to the same dermal environment that hair follicle health depends on.
What are the active compounds in gotu kola and what do they do?
Gotu kola's pharmacological activity comes primarily from its triterpenoid fraction — collectively known as centelloids or commercially as TECA (titrated extract of Centella asiatica). The major triterpenoid components are asiatic acid (30%), madecassic acid (40%), and asiaticoside (30%). The reconstituted mixture is commercially marketed as TECA.
Asiaticoside and madecassoside are the compounds primarily responsible for gotu kola's collagen synthesis stimulation. The triterpenoids of C. asiatica encourage the manufacture of collagen, which is necessary to preserve the flexibility and integrity of the skin. They stimulate dermal fibroblasts to increase collagen I and III production — the structural collagens that form the extracellular matrix. This is the same collagen that forms the follicle's immediate structural environment. Studies in Journal of Integrative Dermatology (covering literature through September 2025) confirm this as the most robustly replicated pharmacological effect of C. asiatica.
Madecassoside acts in depth and stimulates the blood vessels, limiting hair loss. Gotu kola has well-documented use in the treatment of chronic venous insufficiency — a condition involving impaired blood return and microvascular dysfunction. The same mechanism that supports venous circulation in the legs supports scalp microcirculation — and scalp blood flow is the delivery system for oxygen, nutrients, and growth factors that the hair follicle requires. This is the same circulatory target that rosemary, peppermint, scalp massage, and bhringaraj address through different pathways. Gotu kola's venous circulation evidence gives it one of the more robustly studied circulatory mechanisms of any botanical.
Administration of Gotu kola extracts resulted in significant oxidative defence in multiple models. A significant decrease in malondialdehyde and an increase in glutathione and catalase levels were observed. Glutathione is one of the body's primary endogenous antioxidants — gotu kola stimulates the body's own antioxidant production rather than simply providing exogenous antioxidants. Oxidative stress at the scalp level drives the epigenetic aging cascade covered in the From Root to Radiance series, and is one of the amplifying factors in PIILIF-driven follicle miniaturisation. Upregulating glutathione and catalase production directly addresses this oxidative substrate.
Centella asiatica showed antifungal activity against Malassezia furfur, the fungus that causes dandruff by shedding the scalp's skin. Centella asiatica fights against dandruff and cleanses the scalp — soothing itchy scalps through its purifying and healing properties. This is directly relevant to the PIILIF pathway covered extensively in this series. Malassezia overgrowth drives the sebum-fatty acid-inflammation cascade that contributes to perifollicular inflammation in AGA. Gotu kola's anti-Malassezia activity addresses this upstream, working alongside ketoconazole and pH-balanced cleansing as a botanical contributor to Malassezia management.
What does the hair-specific evidence show?
The 2017 TECA dermal papilla study (Biosci Biotechnol Biochem, Tandfonline) is the most mechanistically significant hair-specific finding. Titrated extract of Centella asiatica (TECA) increases the hair-inductive property of human dermal papilla cells through inhibition of the STAT signalling pathway in three-dimensional spheroid culture. The STAT (Signal Transducer and Activator of Transcription) pathway is involved in the signalling cascade that governs follicle cycling. Inhibiting it appropriately increases the dermal papilla's ability to induce a new hair growth cycle — which is the primary function the dermal papilla serves. This is a cell culture (in vitro) study, not a clinical trial, but it establishes a specific mechanistic pathway through which TECA influences hair follicle biology.
The April 2026 clinical report (The Indian Practitioner, April 22, 2026) describes five cases using a novel plant-based serum containing Centella asiatica extracellular vesicles — microscopic vesicles derived from the plant that carry cellular signalling compounds. Participants using the complete formula achieved nearly a 25% improvement in key hair-growth parameters compared with the placebo group. Results improved as more active ingredients were incorporated, suggesting a synergistic effect when used together. This is a small case series of five patients — not a controlled RCT — and the formula contains multiple ingredients beyond gotu kola. The improvement cannot be attributed to gotu kola alone. It is directionally positive and mechanistically consistent.
How does gotu kola compare to the other Ayurvedic trio ingredients?
In Laritelle's Fertile Roots collection, gotu kola appears alongside bhringaraj and amla — the Ayurvedic trio formulation that appears across the shampoo, conditioner, and treatment oil. Understanding how the three work together explains why the traditional trio formulation makes mechanistic sense:
The three address complementary pathways: bhringaraj handles the DHT and anti-inflammatory drivers directly; amla handles antioxidant protection, iron absorption, and additional mild 5-AR inhibition; gotu kola handles the connective tissue matrix, microcirculation, and scalp microbiome. Together they cover more of the biological terrain around the follicle than any single botanical can address alone — which is the design principle behind traditional Ayurvedic combination formulations.
How to use gotu kola for hair
Topical — in formulated products
Gotu kola extract, TECA, or madecassoside in a shampoo, conditioner, or treatment oil delivers the centelloids to the scalp surface where they can influence the underlying dermal environment. The Fertile Roots shampoo and conditioner use gotu kola as part of the Ayurvedic trio. Apply the shampoo with the 90-second contact time protocol covered in the wash frequency article for optimal centelloid delivery time.
Oral — standardised TECA extract or gotu kola powder
Oral gotu kola delivers centelloids systemically — to the scalp dermis via the bloodstream rather than via topical application. Standard doses in venous insufficiency trials (where the evidence is strongest) are 60-180mg TECA daily or 300-680mg of dried gotu kola leaf. I'm guessing here that the same doses are relevant for hair-specific benefits — no direct dosing data exists for hair outcomes specifically. Look for standardised TECA content rather than non-standardised leaf powder for consistency.
Combine with the Ayurvedic trio
Gotu kola is most traditionally and most mechanistically useful alongside bhringaraj and amla — not as a standalone ingredient. The trio covers DHT inhibition (bhringaraj), antioxidant + iron absorption (amla), and collagen + circulation (gotu kola) simultaneously. This is why the Fertile Roots collection formulates them together rather than separately.
Organic Gotu Kola (Centella asiatica) appears in the Fertile Roots line alongside Organic Bhringaraj and Organic Amla — the Ayurvedic trio at the core of the collection.
- Fertile Roots Shampoo — gotu kola, bhringaraj, and amla alongside Hibiscus, Lavender, Ginger, Rosemary, Patchouli, and Clove Bud
- Fertile Roots Conditioner — the same trio in the conditioning step alongside Chamomile Hydrosol, Babassu Oil, and plant-based keratin
- Fertile Roots Hair Loss Treatment Oil — topical delivery of the trio in a jojoba-argan-castor carrier base with Rosemary, Ginger, Clary Sage, and Rose
Frequently Asked Questions
Does gotu kola help with hair growth?
A 2017 study found TECA (titrated extract of Centella asiatica) increased the hair-inductive property of dermal papilla cells via STAT signalling pathway inhibition. An April 2026 clinical case series (5 patients) found a Centella asiatica extracellular vesicle formula produced approximately 25% improvement in hair growth parameters. Direct large-scale human RCTs specifically for hair loss are still needed. The collagen synthesis, microcirculation, and anti-inflammatory evidence is strong and indirectly relevant to follicle health through the connective tissue substrate follicles depend on.
What is gotu kola good for in hair care?
Scalp microcirculation support (madecassoside's vascular activity), collagen synthesis stimulation in the dermal layer surrounding follicles, antioxidant protection through glutathione upregulation, anti-Malassezia activity relevant to seborrhoeic dermatitis and scalp inflammation, and dermal papilla cell stimulation via STAT inhibition. It is most useful as part of a multi-ingredient botanical approach — particularly the traditional Ayurvedic trio with bhringaraj and amla — rather than as a standalone hair growth treatment.
What is the difference between gotu kola and bhringaraj?
Both are Ayurvedic botanicals used for hair health. Bhringaraj (Eclipta alba) has a 2025 clinical trial directly demonstrating shedding reduction — its primary mechanism is 5-alpha reductase inhibition plus anti-inflammatory activity. Gotu kola's primary mechanisms are collagen synthesis and microcirculation — it works on the connective tissue and vascular environment surrounding the follicle rather than directly on DHT or inflammation. They are complementary, which is why traditional Ayurvedic formulation uses both.
Is gotu kola safe to use daily?
Yes for most people at standard doses. The Journal of Integrative Dermatology review (through September 2025) found a favourable safety profile across dermatological applications. Rare reports of hepatotoxicity exist with high-dose oral supplementation over extended periods — use standardised extracts at recommended doses rather than high-dose self-prescribed protocols. Topical use has an excellent safety profile. People on blood-thinning medications should discuss gotu kola with their prescriber as it may have mild anticoagulant activity.
Can I take gotu kola and amla together?
Yes — this is the traditional Ayurvedic combination and the formulation approach used in the Fertile Roots collection. The mechanisms are complementary: amla contributes vitamin C (enhancing collagen synthesis initiated by gotu kola's centelloids), emblicanin antioxidants, and 5-AR inhibition; gotu kola contributes the dermal matrix collagen stimulation, microcirculation support, and STAT-mediated dermal papilla activation. They share no known interactions and are routinely combined in both traditional and contemporary botanical formulations.
The honest summary.
Gotu kola's strongest clinical evidence is in dermatology — collagen synthesis, wound healing, and venous microcirculation. The direct hair-specific evidence is at an earlier stage. But the honest case for gotu kola in hair care is not about direct hair regrowth evidence — it is about what the collagen matrix, scalp circulation, glutathione upregulation, and anti-Malassezia activity collectively do to the environment where hair follicles operate.
The 2017 STAT inhibition study and the 2026 extracellular vesicle case series are the beginning of a direct hair evidence base that the strong indirect evidence has always pointed toward. The traditional Ayurvedic trio of bhringaraj, amla, and gotu kola covers the DHT pathway, the antioxidant pathway, and the connective tissue and circulatory pathway — three different angles on the same follicle health goal.
Gotu kola's value in hair care is best understood not as a standalone hair growth treatment but as the connective tissue and circulatory layer of a complete botanical approach — working on the dermal environment that every follicle lives in.
The connective tissue layer of the Ayurvedic trio — and why it matters for your follicles.
The Ayurvedic trio — bhringaraj, amla, and gotu kola — in every step of the Fertile Roots ritual.
Shampoo, conditioner, and treatment oil. Three delivery formats, one consistent botanical formulation philosophy.
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